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Newfoundland Travels-Labrador

On Wednesday, August 27, 2003 we have a beautiful day for traveling in Labrador. We are traveling on the Trans Labrador Highway. Our first stop was L’Anse Amour, the site of a grave 7,500 years old. This was found by a group of students who thought that the rock pattern was quite unusual. Under the rock they found an enshrouded child of about twelve, face-down, painted in red with a flat rock on the lower back. Artifacts associated with the burial include a walrus tusk, a number of stone and bone projectile points, a bird bone whistle, paint grinding tools, an antler pendant, a toggling harpoon and a decorated ivory eagle.

Down the road is the Amour Lighthouse, the tallest one in Newfoundland Province. Even its presence has not stopped ships from the treacherous shores. In 1922, the HMS Raleigh, a 12,000 Ton cruiser, avoiding an iceberg, ran aground. Its wreckage is strewn on the shore. During WWII two ships collided in the dense fog in the straits, because there was a warning of a U-boat in the area. Ironically two other ships were lost in the straits that day too, but in a different area. The Strait of Belle Isle is not only an iceberg alley, but also a shipwreck alley.

Up the road at Red Bay archeologists are still uncovering the first industrial whaling factory in the world. Founded in the 1540s by the Basque fishermen, from the area between France and Spain, the whale oil was used to light up Europe. During its peak, over 2,500 whalers in Labrador, produced approximately 20,000 barrels of oil annually. Using chalupas, a boat not a sandwich, they harpooned the right whales and brought them ashore for processing. In the harbor on Saddle Island archeological digs are still in process. Many artifacts are on display in the local museum, including pieces of the wreckage of The San Juan, a whaling ship, found near the modern wreckage of the Bernier, caught in the same type of storms associated with the Labrador Coast. Many sites exist on the mainland, but have not been explored, because they are on private property. The Basque industry died around 1600, due to their involvement with the Spanish Armada.

At Red Bay, the paved road ends. A new gravel road leads to Cartwright, opening the coastal towns for tourism and commercial development. After traveling 40 or so km on the road, we parked for the night at one of the numerous gravel pits used for the construction of the roadbed.

Today we spent six hours driving the gravel road from Red Bay to Cartwright, a distance of 312 kilometers or 187 miles. The road is approximately ten yards wide and is very will groomed. The speed limit is 70 kph or 42 mph. All along the road are sweeping vistas of pine forest and mountains, something akin to driving the Northern Passage through the Adirondacks. Approximately 80 kilometers from Cartwright is the junction for the planned road to Goose Bay of an additional 250 kilometers.

Most of the towns along the route are bypassed by the new road. There are few services on the highway itself. In Lodge Bay, gas and sundry items are available at Mona’s One Stop; no diesel. Diesel is available at Mary’s Harbour at C & J’s Automotive. St. Mary’s is the embarkation point for Battle Harbour Island and National Historic District. Known as the "unofficial" capital of Labrador, Battle Harbour was a major base for salt cod fishing in Labrador during the 19th Century. The area looks pretty much like it did in 1909. The fishery continued until the 1990s and then was donated to the people. Until the advent of the highway this year the island was pretty inaccessible, except by boat.  Today interpreters in traditional dress guide the tourist through a typical fishing village of the 19th and 20th centuries. Accommodations are available for overnight stays.

50 k. from Mary’s Harbour is Port Hope Simpson on the beautiful Alexis River. Restaurants, sleeping accommodations, fuel and a hospital are available there. This is the last vestige of civilization for the next 187 k. There are very few places to turn off the highway to rest. Most people just park at the side of the road. Most of the traffic encountered were construction vehicles along a 50 k. stretch.

The roads in Cartwight are in complete contrast to the highway: rutted and corrugated. We parked with other trailers at the ticket office parking lot, located near the dock.

Spent a quiet day in Cartwright. We boarded the Sir Robert (not James) Bond Ferry at 4:30 for a 7:00 sailing. The ship was full to capacity, everyone returning home from vacation or making the best of a three day weekend before returning to school or work. The ship is far from luxurious. During the night many people, who did not have a broom closet size room, slept on the deck. The strangest thing about the ship is the food service. The cafeteria was open only until 6:30, ½ hour before sailing. Only snacks and the bar were open during the sailing itself. Wanted to see the Wunderstrand, a mile long white sand beach landmark for the Vikings, a two day journey from L’Anse aux Meadows. By the time we arrived at the coast and Porcupine Point, the sun had already set. After a fun night on board the ferry, we docked at Goose Bay-Happy Valley, NF. We woke up to a typical Labrador day: overcast, wet, and cool.

Our first stop was the Visitor’s center, which was closed: only opened Mon-Fri. I guess the people forget that an influx of people comes off a boat every Saturday between 8:00 and 9:00 AM, who might like some information about the town. We had heard that RVs were allowed to park in the town hall parking lot. But we did not know where that was and our map did not show it. We decided to go to a Tim Horton’s, think Dunkin’ Donuts in the States, and get needed nourishment, a cup of Java, and some necessary directions. Having gotten both and some good advice from the locals who had been on the ship with us, we were headed out the door, when we heard exclaimed, "CHICAGO?" I was wearing my Chicago Heights Roadway Jacket. We turned around and met a couple from Chicago. He worked for Serco, weather forecasters at the air base. After spending some time in conversation, he asked us if we wanted a tour of the facilities. The Greek chorus roared out a resounding, "YES".

Goose Bay Airport was once one of the most significant military airbases in North America. The US built a mega-runway, long enough to land any aircraft and once employed 16,000 personnel as a SAC base until 1991. In the 1980s one of the space shuttles used the runway for a landing strip. We were escorted to the weather forecasting tower and given a cook’s tour of the facilities. The facility is divided into three sections,: observation, military briefing, and forecasting. They are responsible for the weather observation and reporting of a 240 K diameter area, the size of New England minus Maine. We were unable to go up into the adjacent air tower. The RAF, British Royal Air Force, was planning to start low flying maneuvers in a few minutes. We had missed the take off of a US AWACS plane a couple hours ago. We went out on the deck and watched as Tornado fighter planes took off from the runway, afterburners on and a thunderous roar in their wake; a pretty exciting spectacle. Between take offs a RCMP jet landed and taxied in front of us. Other smaller commercial planes also shared the runway. In other words, Goose Bay is a vibrant living entity. Also using the facilities are the German Air Force (Luftwafte), and the Canada 5 Wing.

On base is a Canex, like a PX in the States. Anyone can shop here. What makes this place unique is the wide selection of food available for Labrador. Specialty items are flown in from Germany and Great Britain, giving the servicemen and women a feeling of home. The German club has a restaurant open to the local citizens, but is closed to them until after tourist season in mid September.

A sunny day in Labrador. We saw some hiking trails in a brochure for Birch Brook Nordic Ski Club. The trails are well groomed and go through different types of forest ecosystems. One aspen tree has the scars of where a bear tried climbing it. At the top of one of the hills, called Lookout Rock, we were able to have a scenic view of Lake Melville and the environs. Along the trail we saw fresh piles of black bear scat. We knew it was black bear, because of the preponderance of blueberries and crackerberries in it. There were enough of them to make jam. NOT!!!

We continued the drive to North West River and Sheshitiu further along Lake Melville about twenty-five miles down lake. The towns are separated by a river and a chasm of cultural differences. Sheshitiu is Innui and is a resettlement community of the hunter/gatherers from Northern Canada. They hold the land in common and have little concept of private possessions and permanency of residences. It is a town you travel through, but do not want to stay. Your possessions are assumed to be communal property and so are treated as thus. On the other side of the river live the Innuit and Metis. Surprisingly there is no restaurant in town, just a grocery store. What the town does have to offer are beautiful beaches and trails. There are also two important museums there: the Labrador Museum and the Labrador Interpretation Center.

The Labrador Museum is divided into four sections: hunters/gatherers lifestyle, Hudson Bay Trading Company, Grenfell’s Medical Mission Work among the population, and the Hubbard Expedition of the Interior of 1903. We spent about one hour there looking at the exhibits.

The Labrador Interpretation Center was opened by Queen Elizabeth II in 1997. A modern building with artifacts thousands of years old from the different peoples settling Labrador. On display is a 100 year old sealskin kayak, which still looked pretty serviceable. The mannequins’ models were real people from Labrador. The Center also has a large auditorium which shows two movies about the different sections of Labrador.

On the way home we dropped by the Aurora Hotel and picked up the satellite phone for our journey to Churchill Falls tomorrow. This is a free service, secured by a credit card, on a twenty-four hour basis, whereby you can contact the RCMP in case of an emergency.

Before leaving Goose Bay on our trek to Churchill Falls and beyond, we had heard about the art work at the Labrador Medical Center about one hundred yards from us. The people were right. The art work is beautiful. Diana Dabinett, an artist from St. John’s did a series of painted silk hangings depicting different aspects of Labrador: birds, sea life, animals, and scenery. These are hanging in the cafeteria along with large oil painting of different scenes of Labrador: coastal, waterfalls, tree lined mountains. Along the corridors are folk sculptures done by the Innu and Innuit peoples. All of the signs in the hospital are written in three languages: English, Innu, and Innuit.

With satellite telephone in hand, off we went for the 180 mile adventure along the gravel road of Rte 500. The speed limit is 70 kph (42 mph). The road is well maintained but still rough. We saw two graders working on different parts of the road.. The views are of black spruce forests with aspens, birches, and other fir trees interspersed. The ground cover is primarily Caribou Moss; really a lichen. Near the East Metchin River is the ORMA Caribou Hunting Zone. Off to the side of the road you can see the remains of caribou, which have been killed for sport: hooves, bones, etc.

We reached Churchill Falls after six hours of driving. We averaged about thirty-five miles per hour. This included frequent rest stops. We did not want to race through the area, because of the presence of potholes, etc.

We went on a tour of the Churchill Falls Hydroelectric Underground Plant. This plant is the largest underground plant in the world, seventh largest electrical producer in the world, using eleven turbines to produce enough 60% of the electricity for Quebec Province and all of Labrador. We took an elevator over nine hundred feet into the bedrock, where the rock is over 3,000,000,000 (three billion) year old, some of the oldest rock in the world. I cannot fathom that number. The trip to Labrador is worth just taking this tour of the plant, an unknown wonder of the world. The reservoir of water used for the production is the size of the province of New Brunswick. It takes three days for the water to flow from it to reach the underground turbines.

The town itself is one of the few company towns still in existence. All of the housing and other facilities are owned and operated by the CFLCL, except the only gas station, and the hotel restaurant complex. The library for a town of only 650 people is quite extensive and is opened more than any library in Newfoundland Province, including St. John’s. The town is a great place to work, but not retire. The winters are quite challenging: -40° F and up to fifteen feet of snow annually. Most people plan to stay only five years, but remain because they become enamoured with the North Country living. Most people purchase pickup trucks, snowmobiles (one per family member), canoes, motorboats, and other adult recreational toys. To get away from meeting the same people while working, shopping, praying, etc., they build a cabin out of town. Everything is subsidized by the company, including food (same prices as St. John’s), housing, and freight transportation costs.

The tour guide mentioned about getting a sheet on the road conditions to Labrador City, which completely slipped our minds. We did remember to pick up the next satellite telephone, for which we are truly grateful. The road to Labrador City was an adventure. Some places you could go fifty mph, but then, almost immediately you hit a series of washboard road, which reduced your speed to less than fifteen mph. There are graders out to improve the road, but there is nothing to improve since most of the top layer has been already scraped off

We were very fortunate during our 160 mile trip. We only lost the cap to our sewer pipe connection and broke one wine glass. Everything was covered with a fine layer of dust. We wanted an adventure and our wish was fulfilled. We could still speak to each other fairly civilly--with a bit of effort.

We went touring Wabush and Labrador City, both towns were built in the late 60s and early 70s because of the iron deposits. First came the railroad from Sept-Iles, PQ. Later the road was built from Baie Comeau.

All of the mine tours ended the Friday before Labor Day. Once again we were a few days too late. We did see a couple of blasts. The Wabash mine set one off at 12:15. It was small. The ICC mine, however, set off a large one about an hour later.

About the Author

John and Maggie Pelley are Geriatric Gypsies. Both of us are retired from the rat race of working. We are full-time RVers, who ran away from home. We began our travels on the East Coast and, like the migrating birds, seek the warmth of the seasons. No more shoveling snow in Chicago. We have discovered volunteering with the National Park System. During our travels we have found that each town has a story to tell: some are more interesting than others. Both of us enjoy good listening music as we go. John has a CD he has recorded of Native American flure music. We have learned that RVing has a learning curve. We want to pass on some advice the help others avoid this trecherous curve. Life is an adventure. We are living it to the utmost.

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